WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BREAKFAST?
Sourdough breads are my guilty pleasure, and I love having a classic American breakfast, especially when I’m on vacation. Nothing beats a good scramble on toast.
IS THERE A CHILDHOOD COMFORT FOOD THAT YOU THINK ABOUT?
I grew up eating this dish, called “assam laksa” (pronounced ah-sum luck-sar), which is made of rice noodles in a piquant and slightly spicy fish-based broth. It is a dish that requires multiple stages of preparation, and I will always associate it with the heart-warming childhood memories of watching my grandmother, aunts and mother work together in the kitchen.
If you would like to find out more about assam laksa: https://asianinspirations.com.au/food- knowledge/the-history-of-laksa/
WHICH TALENT WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO HAVE THAT YOU DON’T POSSESS?
I wish I was better at drawing! I enjoy doodling, and I find that it keeps me creative, even though I’m not very good at it.
WAS THERE ANYTHING THAT YOU THOUGHT YOU WANTED TO DO BEFORE YOU STARTED COOKING?
When I was 8, I wanted to be a zookeeper. At 12, I wanted to be a police woman. At 16, I wanted to be a lawyer but ended up taking a culinary course!
OF ALL THE FRENCH PASTRIES, WHICH IS YOUR FAVORITE TO MAKE?
I love making croissants and baguettes. During culinary school, I was never as interested in baking classes until we started making croissants! I found the process incredibly therapeutic, and very gratifying. Similarly, I had a lot of fun making baguettes at home while we were under lockdown (in Singapore, for COVID-19).
IS THERE ONE FOOD THAT YOU’RE SECRETLY OBSESSED WITH HAVING AT HOME?
Kinder-Bueno chocolate bars. I am such a child at heart, and it’s my favorite snack.
IS THERE A FOOD THAT YOU DISLIKE?
I believe in keeping an open mind towards every ingredient, because all of them can taste excellent when they’re in good hands, so I don’t think there’s a food that I dislike per se. I think it’s a matter of not knowing how to appreciate them, just yet. Some of these ingredients would be things like offals, fish milt, and other exotic ingredients. But I’m a “never say no” person, so who knows – maybe I’ll come across a chef that’ll prepare them superbly soon.
IF YOU COULD FIND OUT ANYONE’S SECRET RECIPE, WHOSE AND WHAT WOULD IT BE?
Elkano’s grilled fish liquid. During my time in the Basque country, I ate a lot of grilled fishes like turbot, and I always saw the chefs pouring a liquid onto the fish while they were grilling it. I loved its exquisite flavor and the shine that it gave to the fish, I tried asking my trip guide what is that liquid in the bottle, but I was told that “the chefs will never reveal what’s in that bottle”.
Info about Elkano: https://www.theworlds50best.com/the-list/21-30/Elkano.html
WHAT’S YOUR MOST MEMORABLE MEAL AND WHY?
Haha, funny how this follows up to the previous question but it’s lunch at Elkano, for sure. Till now, I can’t forget the flavors and freshness of their seafood dishes. But for a dining experience to be complete, it has to go beyond the flavours of the food. It should be evoking a feeling… and become a memory that you never want to let go of. I really enjoyed having the opportunity to witness Chef Aitor cutting up the fish and giving a really detailed explanation on the parts of the turbot and how to best consume them. That willingness to share his knowledge really touched my heart. He even gave me his book! I’ll never forget Elkano. Thank you, Chef Aitor.
WHAT MENTORS HELPED YOU ALONG YOUR JOURNEY OF BECOMING A CHEF?
Chef Christopher Millar mentored me while I was just starting out in the F&B industry, and he taught me what it means to lead with compassion, but with a firm hand. Being a Head Chef means more than just creating beautiful dishes. There is also a responsibility to be a good leader and to build a vision for the team, and I learnt that from Chef Chris. Chef Carlos Montobbio showed me how to bring out the most vibrant flavours from the ingredients that we work with. I learnt that different methods of preparation can bring out different dimensions in a single ingredient. He pushed me to experiment, to finesse every ingredient to its fullest.
THROUGHOUT YOUR EXPERIENCE IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY, HAVE YOU NOTICED A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN KITCHENS THAT ARE RUN BY MEN VS. KITCHENS THAT ARE RUN BY WOMEN? IF SO, WHAT WAS THIS DIFFERENCE, AND HOW DID IT IMPACT THE OVERALL ENVIRONMENT WHILST PREPARING FOOD?
Quite frankly, I have never worked in a female-led kitchen ever, beside my own. I believe that the desire for excellence is universal, but it’s the means to that end that may differ… and that change, over time. I think we’re in an epoch where we are finally seeing the importance of collaboration. As someone who has experienced the harshness of working in a kitchen, that is why I believe in leading with empathy. Not because I had suffered in a male-led kitchen, but simply because it is time that we move away from that sort of traditional hierarchy.
IT IS REALLY SAD TO SEE WHAT IS HAPPENING GLOBALLY. YOUNG ASPIRING CHEFS ARE LOOKING TO THEIR HERO’S HOW TO TURN PAIN INTO CREATIVITY. DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE ON HOW TO TURN THIS DIFFICULT TIME INTO SOMETHING PRODUCTIVE?
The COVID-19 pandemic has been devastating for people and for F&B industries worldwide. In the wake of all this loss and pain, I think my advice would be to rethink how you can use your food, or your process of creating food, to ease someone else’s pain. Can you warm someone’s heart with this dish? Can you mobilize your network of suppliers for a good cause, to feed someone in need?
WHAT IS ONE POSITIVE AND ONE NEGATIVE EFFECT COVID-19 HAS HAD ON YOUR LOVE FOR MAKING FOOD?
Positive – I learnt that delivery and takeaway can be done at a high level as well. I was fascinated to see all the new types of packaging that now exist in the market! It made me re-imagine how we can use specific shapes and compartments in a container, to “plate” a dish. I have always believed that we can learn anywhere, anytime and from anyone. I’m really glad COVID was no different. Negative – There were a lot of shipment issues, even until now, that really frustrates me, because some of our suppliers couldn’t even bring in the most basic ingredients. This totally threw me and my team out of our comfort zones and we had to keep improvising and adapting to the situation.
HOW HAVE YOU BEEN SPENDING YOUR TIME RECENTLY, HAVE YOU HAD TIME TO CREATE NEW RECIPES?
In Singapore, we are just coming out a two-month lockdown, during which my restaurants weren’t allowed to operate. I spent some time working as a food delivery rider, which made me think about how we can improve the perceived value of take-out meals. Working on the ground and interacting with customers firsthand, when they have no idea that I’m actually a chef, truly left me with some interesting insights!
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